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Bolt of Brocaded Silk for Obi with Paulownia Motif

20th

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Bolt of Brocaded Silk for Obi with Paulownia Motif

20th

Physical Qualities Silk, gold and silver metallic-wrapped threads, 163 × 27 1/4 in. (414 × 69.2 cm.)
Credit Line Gift of Randall Lewis, Bethesda, Maryland, in Honor of Arnold Lehman
Object Number 2016.236
Bolt (tan) of heavy silk brocade with white background and large-scale motif of a paulownia flower with large leaves and small vertical blooms similar to the family kamon (crest) given by the emperor to Hideyoshi, during the Momoyama period (1568-1600). Each motif features three large leaves woven in medium blue, green, and red or orange outlined in gold metallic threads with three stems of floral motifs woven with purple, lt. blue, and salmon or coral petals and black stems. These motifs are outlined in woven metallic gold threads and are arranged in rows of two across the width of the fabric. They alternate with rows of with smaller similar floral motifs featuring a single stem of orange blooms and three leaves woven in a somewhat darker blue, a lighter green, and red outlined in silver metallic threads. The sides of the bolt are complete selvages. Long floats of gold and silver metallic threads as well as silks can be seen across the reverse of the fabric, but they reverse direction at the end of the motif and do not cross the entire width. Hence this is a true brocade. The ends are cut and unfinished. A double line of woven metallic stripes crosses the end of the obi bolt (or tan).
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 2016; Dr. Randall Lewis, Bethesda, MD, via inheritance from father, via purchase in Japan

Inscribed: Marked at end of bolt in purple ink "76625" Also stamped with circular stamp.

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