Furisode with Hi-ogi (Heian Imperial Fans)
1911
Physical Qualities
Silk, dye, pigments, gold and silver foil; silk, and gold and silver metal-leafed paper wrapped around cotton core embroidery threads, silk lining, 72 1/2 x 49 1/2 in. (184.2 x 125.7 cm.)
Credit Line
Gift of Mrs. D.M. Cheston, Baltimore
Object Number
1990.113
A furisode or long sleeve kimono (42-1/2" long) with brightly patterned fabric of a type worn by a young single woman or a new bride at her wedding reception. It is fashioned from white monochrome patterned silk satin (rinzu) with woven sayagata pattern consisting of swastika --an ancient Buddhist symbol meaning longevity, and a plum blosson, wild orchid (ran), chrysanthemum (kiku), and bamboo, signifying the Confucian moral grouping of "The Four Noble Ones". The kimono is embellished with paste resist outline dyeing (yuzen), stencil dyeing (katazome), embroidery (nui), couched embroidery (koma nui), hand painting (kaki-e), and metal leafed decoration (surihaku)..
The most prominent pattern consists of Heian imperial fans (Hi-ogi)--each of which is composed of diverse multicolored, floral and geometric motifs adopted from traditional Japanese textile designs. These designs are hand-painted, dyed using the yuzen-zome technique (a starch-resist process), outlined with metallic pigments, and outlined with couched gold and silver metallic-wrapped threads. They include kanoko shibori (fawn spot tie dye), kara hana (Chinese flowers), and other patterns. In addition, the Heian era symbols of kaioki (shell boxes), gosho guruma (nobleman's carriage), and misu (palace blinds) are depicted on the fans. Multiple ribbons of embroidered silk floss in various combinations of red-orange, purple, dark green, blue, peach, yellow, and white float across the open areas of the background, forming tied bows at the tips of the fans.
A secondary pattern called kumo-tatewaku (undulating vertical lines with clouds) created using the surihaku technique with metal foil placed over adhesive and painted pigments is found on both the outer robe and the robe's red silk lining along the hem and on the edges of the lower half of the kimono. A padded red hem about 1" wide extends beyond the whilte fabric of the kimono along the hem.
Five family crests (kamon) are found on this kimono located in their traditional positions; on the front 2 crests are centered on each front panel 6" below the shoulder line; on the back are 3 crests, one in the upper back 2" below the neck, two others are centered on each sleeve 3" below the upper sleeve edge. The mon is an ivy leaf within a circle, a crest used by the Ashikaga shoguns.* These measure somewhat less than an inch in diameter and are drawn in (or reserved) both on open ground fabric and in the middle of motifs.
* (See Liddell, p 59) (See notes)
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift; Mrs. D.M. Cheston, Baltimore by purchase in Tokyo, Japan, 1952; by donation to bazaar.
Anita Jones and Ann Marie Moeller, The Baltimore Museum of Art, Baltimore, MD, "Kimono and Obi: Romantic Echoes from Japan's Golden Age," July 10, 2016 - January 15, 2017.
"Kiimono & Obi: Romantic Echoes from Japan's Golden Age, BMA TODAY, Summer, 2016, cover illustration (detail) p.1, color illustration (detail) p, 3, and full illustration with copy p. 7.
Andre, Linda, and Jessica Skwire Routhier, eds. The Baltimore Museum of Art: Celebrating A Museum. Baltimore, Maryland: Baltimore Museum of Art, 2014.
Anita Jones, "In the Spotlight: Recent Accession," BMA Today, March 1992, pp. 18 and 19, illus. p. 18 and cover.
Markings: Five Kamon family crests are found on this kimono located in their traditional positions; on the front 2 crests are centered on each front panel 6" below the shoulder line; on the back are 3 crests, one in the upper 2" below the neck, two others are centered on each sleeve 3" below the upper sleeve edge. The crest is an ivy leaf and it was once used by the Ashikaga shoguns.