Western Woman’s Short Sleeve Black Kimono 2010 Japan, Tokyo Silk, dye, pigment, metal foil, metal-leafed paper strips wrapped around silk or cotton thread core, silk embroidery thread, silk lining The enduring appeal of Heian motifs is evident on this kimono, which was commissioned for an American woman within this decade. Suspended curtains of the type used for dance performances during the Heian Era (794–1185) decorate the garment. Within the Heian court, dancing ability was so admired that a nobleman who delivered a splendid performance could rise in rank, as did Prince Genji in The Tale of Genji. Although the extensive decoration on this short sleeve black kimono and the absence of family crests signal that it was made for a foreigner, the beauty of the elaborate yuzen dyeing, applied gold leaf (surihaku), and the presence of the Heian dance curtain, testify to the continuity of skill and subject matter in current Japanese kimono production. The long stitches (basting) around the lower skirt of the kimono (used to keep the lining flat until wearing) create a pine needle motif on each corner. Pine needles resemble the Japanese character for “human” and a pair represents a happy couple. Gift of Charles W. Newhall III, Baltimore, BMA 2014.81.1a