Skip to main content

Unidentified

Kashmir Shawl (Rumal)

Indian, 1869-1879

Scroll

Unidentified

Kashmir Shawl (Rumal)

Indian, 1869-1879

Physical Qualities Wool, 69 1/2 x 70 in. (176.5 x 177.8 cm.) (approximately)
Credit Line Gift of Margaretta M. Brace, Fayetteville, New York
Object Number 2007.311
Twill-tapestry woven Kashmir shawl in square shape known as a "rumal," or shoulder mantle. The center of the shawl is black and due to its late 19th century date is very small and surrounded by elaborate floral and scroll or "vase" designs that virtually smother it . A signature is embroidered in white threads within this center. The body of the shawl is woven with wool threads in pink, red, white, black, turquoise, teal, gold, green, purple, darker pink or rose, orange, and brown. Three borders surround the shawl's square center. The first, approximately 4" wide, is twill-tapestry woven and patterned with scrolls and foliate designs. The second, approximately 4" wide, is composed of pieced wool and embroidered in floral and onion shaped designs. The 3rd and outermost border is approximately 1-1/2" wide and consists of a small multi-colored "harlequin"band with fringe on fur sides.
Two versions exist :
From appraiser's report dated May 15, 2007:
"Donor inherited [shawl] from her second cousin, Jane Quait Clarke Waite, who, in turn received it from her grandmother. It had belonged to the gradmother's sister, Miss Emma "Jane" Millar of Utica, New York. Jane Millar's parents, Charles Millar and Jan Quait Mills emigrated from England in 1836 and eventually settled in Utica. The parents maintained a large home there, in which were living Emma Jane Millar, as well as the widowed grandmother of Jane Waite and and Jane Waite's mother. Family tradition says that the shawl was purchased by Jane Millar in New York,
c. 1880."

From donor's representative on phone:
"Mrs. Brace received [the shawl] from her second cousin Jane Quait Clarke Waite, who inherited the shawl through the family from her grandmother's sister, Miss Emma Jane Millar of Utica, N.Y. Family tradition says that Jane Millar purchased the shawl in New York, c. 1880.
Frank Ames, The Kashmir Shawl..., p. 324, color plate 62 dexcribed as Rumal, shoulder mantle, Dogra, c. 1870.

Golden Thread Antiques; Em's Heart Antique Linens; Nomad Art Gallery;
Sotheby's Olympia London, 7 Oct 2003, # 91
Sotheby's Olympia London, 22 Nov 2001, #8
Victoriana.com
www.vintageconnection.net
www.antiqudressgallery.com
www.vintagetextile.com

Inscribed: A small white cloth label with the printed word "Spradlinized" and printed number in bluish ink "No. 866" is sewn to the upper left of the reverse side Embroidered in white threads is "signature" in psuedo arabic script.

Maker

Unidentified

2000-01-01 00:00:00–2000-01-01 00:00:00

Explore the Collection Further

Unidentified
Qur'an
1844–1854
Kashmir Shawl
1833–1899
Unidentified
Knife Box
1784–1794
Naga
Shawl or Wrapping Cloth
1949–1955
Swahili and Unidentified
Embroidered Cap (kofia ya kiua)
1799–1917
Silk Turnover Shawl with Tambour Embroidery
1849–1889
Swahili and Unidentified
Embroidered Mantle
1799–1917
Unknown
Large Brocaded and Paisley Printed Chiffon Shawl
1900–1932
Mbun and Unidentified
Woman's Skirt with Nested Diamonds
1898–1932
Paul B. Haviland and Alfred Stieglitz
The Spanish Shawl
1911
Kuba and Unidentified
Royal Woman's Red Overskirt
1700–1798
Jean-Pierre Norblin de la Gourdaine and Rembrandt van Rijn
Standing Woman Wearing Shawl
1769–1789