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Length of Fabric with Chrysanthemum Pattern from a Disassembled Obi

1899-1928

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Length of Fabric with Chrysanthemum Pattern from a Disassembled Obi

1899-1928

Physical Qualities Silk, gold metallic gilded paper strips wrapped around a thread core, 78-1/4 x 27-1/4 in.
Credit Line Gift of Davy McCall, Chestertown, Maryland
Object Number 2002.600
A length of silk fabric with chrysanthemums patterned by multi-colored patterning wefts. The pattern consists of groups of flowers woven in repeating alternating bands of white and gold, tan and gold, and plum and gold with olive-green leaves. The background is gold with designs of ho'o birds, and heisi (diamonds), butterflies, and shippo (overlapping circular motifs) as well as ancient square poem papers--some with deteriorating edges, etc. to show age This fabric was once used for an obi, but the obi has been disassembled, unfolded to about twice its original width (probably about 12-1/2"), and cut down to about half of its original length (probably approximately about 13 feet). The fabric is nishiki, a complex fabric with a monochromatic (gold) warp and multiple colors of weft including supplementary wefts of plum, white, tan, green, and very light gold or cream. A dark brown weft (wrapped in some substance that was intended to appear as oxidized metallic thread) appears with every fourth pick. The colored wefts are bound in plain weave. The gold ground appears to be a satin weave. The selvages are present and have diagonal cuts at regular intervals. They are folded under approximately 1" at each edge. The top and bottom edges are cut and unfinished.
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 2002; Davy McCall, Chestertown, Maryland, purchased by the donor in Nikko, Japan in 1945
Gluckman, Dale and Takedad, Sharon. When Art Became Fashion: Kosode in Edo-Period Japan, Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 1992. (General).
Yan, Sunny and Narasin, Rochelle M. Textile Art of Japan. Tokyo: Shufunotomo Co., Ltd., 1989, pp. 101-109.
Liddell, Jill. The Story of the Kimono. New York: E.P. Dutton, 1989,
p. 227, fig. 220.

Inscribed: None.

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