Physical Qualities
Sterling silver, enamel, 1 1/4 x 3 5/8 in. (each part)
Credit Line
Gift of Michael Merson, Baltimore
Object Number
1999.739
Archibald Knox was born on the Isle of Man, a stronghold of ancient Celtic culture. For this waist clasp or belt buckle, Knox adapted the form of a portcullis, a symbolic entryway that opened to receive initiates into Celtic mysteries. He ornamented the arched form with whiplash-stemmed water lilies, a popular Art Nouveau motif. Handmade of silver enriched with blue-green enamel, the clasp typifies turn-of-the-century jewelry that emphasized strong design, rejecting the need for expensive materials such as gold or large-karat gems. The clasp was part of Knox’s “Cymric” line for Liberty’s of London, which made him a household name in England. As tastemaker and playwright Oscar Wilde described the luxury department store, “Liberty is the chosen resort of the artistic shopper.”
Inscribed: On a: UNDERNEATH of one part (struck), 'CYMRIC' (L&CC Ltd. cipher); Birmingham assay marks for 1903, stamped: "8"
Markings: On b: stamped "8" on back