Tsuzureya
Western Woman’s Short Sleeved Black Kimono
2009
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Tsuzureya
Western Woman’s Short Sleeved Black Kimono
2009
Physical Qualities
Silk, dye, pigment, metal foil, metal-leafed paper strips wrapped around silk or cotton thread core, silk embroidery threads, silk lining
, 62 1/2 × 56 1/2 in. (158.8 × 143.5 cm.)
Credit Line
Gift of Charles W. Newhall III, Baltimore
Object Number
2014.81.1
The enduring appeal of Heian motifs is evident on this kimono, which was commissioned for an American woman within this decade. Suspended curtains of the type used for dance performances during the Heian Era (794–1185) decorate the garment. Within the Heian court, dancing ability was so admired that a nobleman who delivered a splendid performance could rise in rank, as did Prince Genji in The Tale of Genji.
Although the extensive decoration on this short sleeve black kimono and the absence of family crests signal that it was made for a foreigner, the beauty of the elaborate yuzen dyeing, applied gold leaf (surihaku), and the presence of the Heian dance curtain, testify
to the continuity of skill and subject matter in current Japanese kimono production.
The long stitches (basting) around the lower skirt of the kimono (used to keep the lining flat until wearing) create a pine needle motif on each corner. Pine needles resemble the Japanese character for “human” and a pair represents a happy couple.
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 2014; Charles Newhall, Baltimore by purchase, Tokyo, Japan
Kimono and Obi: Romantic Echoes from Japan's Golden Age
Annie Van Assche (ed.), "Fashioning Kimono: Dress and Modernity in Early Twentieth-Century Japan," The Montgomery Collection, published in conjuntion with the exhibition held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, 13 October 2005-1 May 2006, Milan, Italy: 5 Continents, 2005.
Jill Liddell, "The Story of the Kimono." New York: E.P. Dutton, 1989.
Seiroku Noma, "Japanese Costume and Textile Arts." New York: Weatherhill/Heibonsha, 1983.
Norio Yomanaka, "The Book of Kimono." Tokyo: Kodansha International, 1986.
Ken-Ichi Kawakatsu, "Kimono." Tokyo: Japan Travel Bureau, 1954.
Ishimura Hayao and Muriyama Nobuhiko, "Robes of Elegance, Japanese Kimonos of the 16th-20th Centuries." Raleigh, N.C.: North Carolina Museum of Art, 1988.
Merrily A. Peebles, "Dressed in Splendor: Japanese Costume 1700-1926." Santa Barbara, CA: Santa Barbara Museum of Art, 1987.
"The New Encyclopaedia Britannica in 30 Volumes," 15th ed., s.v. "Japan, History of." Chicago: Helen Hemingway Benton, 1974.
"The New Encyclopaedia Britannica in 30 Volumes," 15th ed., s.v. "Ashikaga Takauji." Chicago: Helen Hemingway Benton, 1974.
Gunter, Susan. "Japanese Design Motifs and Their Symbolism as used on Itajime-dyed Juban." master\., University of Georgia, 2003.
https://www.fcs.uga.edu/ss/docs/gunter_susan_e_200305_ms.pdf.
Jill Liddell, "The Story of the Kimono." New York: E.P. Dutton, 1989.
Seiroku Noma, "Japanese Costume and Textile Arts." New York: Weatherhill/Heibonsha, 1983.
Norio Yomanaka, "The Book of Kimono." Tokyo: Kodansha International, 1986.
Ken-Ichi Kawakatsu, "Kimono." Tokyo: Japan Travel Bureau, 1954.
Ishimura Hayao and Muriyama Nobuhiko, "Robes of Elegance, Japanese Kimonos of the 16th-20th Centuries." Raleigh, N.C.: North Carolina Museum of Art, 1988.
Merrily A. Peebles, "Dressed in Splendor: Japanese Costume 1700-1926." Santa Barbara, CA: Santa Barbara Museum of Art, 1987.
"The New Encyclopaedia Britannica in 30 Volumes," 15th ed., s.v. "Japan, History of." Chicago: Helen Hemingway Benton, 1974.
"The New Encyclopaedia Britannica in 30 Volumes," 15th ed., s.v. "Ashikaga Takauji." Chicago: Helen Hemingway Benton, 1974.
Gunter, Susan. "Japanese Design Motifs and Their Symbolism as used on Itajime-dyed Juban." master\., University of Georgia, 2003.
https://www.fcs.uga.edu/ss/docs/gunter_susan_e_200305_ms.pdf.
Inscribed: A long envelope with gold Japanese lettering accompanies this kimono. The envelope contains 2 pieces of silk, half dyed in black belonging to the woman's kimono; Inscriptions printed in black on sample Fragment A include: "1304204" and red stamp with Japanese characters, Reverse Side: printed in black: "5994," "3043," "3" and red stamp wiith Japanese characters.
Manufacturer and Retailer
Tsuzureya
2000–2000
Address per Ginza internet site is: Tsuzureya Building, 5-8-3 Ginza, Chuo city, Tokyo.
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