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Yellow Damask Jacket with Cloud Motifs

1894

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Yellow Damask Jacket with Cloud Motifs

1894

Physical Qualities Silk, silk and metallic-wrapped embroidery threads, brass buttons, 41 x 62 in. (104.1 x 157.5 cm.)
Credit Line From the Estate of the Rt. Rev. R. Bland Mitchell
Object Number 2010.61
Han Chinese woman's non-official informal robe or jacket of pale, dull yellow silk damask patterned with (traditional) cloud motifs. The jacket is of three-quarter length with mandarin collar, wide sleeves, side vents, and overlapping front panel secured at the right neck and side by five cast brass knobs or buttons and silk loops. Multiple applied borders surround the collar and reinforce the right front opening edge, side vents, and bottom edge. These include an outer border of 4-1/2" cream silk embroidered in multiple colors of blue, green, royal purple, lavender, and red silk thread, and metallic gold thread. Subjects include lions playing with the mystical ball, pheasant, phoenix, a tiger/lion, a horse, peacocks, heron, and mythical dragons (chilong), and peony, bamboo with details and everlasting know motifs in metallic-wrapped threads. Embroidered borders are piped in deep blue satin. Additional borders include two woven supplementary warp patterned ribbons, one of floral pattern and one with traditional Daoist themes and animals. Wide sleeves feature 4-1/2" sleeve bands of cream satin embroidered in peacocks, flowers, vines, architectural elements, and birds. The jacket is unlined. All embroidery is by hand using stitches.
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 2010; Estate of Vivien M. Thweatt, through the family; Estate of the Rt. Rev. Richard Bland Mitchell, who lived in China as a missionary and was an Episcopal bishop connected to the University of the South

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