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Damask Panel with Stripes of Moiré and Lace Designs

Unknown

Damask Panel with Stripes of Moiré and Lace Designs

1859-1868

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Unknown

Damask Panel with Stripes of Moiré and Lace Designs

1859-1868

Physical Qualities Silk, 23 1/4 x 47 in. (59.1 x 119.4 cm.)
Credit Line Textile Acquisition Fund
Object Number 2006.40
This striped silk damask featuring lace and moiré (a wavy or rippled pattern resembling a water stain) is similar to those found in fashion magazines of the mid-19th century. Whether in dress or interior decoration, Victorians preferred combinations of multiple designs and textures. The lace motif in this silk is a plausibly realistic depiction of an actual lace, possibly a Brussels Duchesse or Duchesse de Bruges, recreated through use of a damask weave. The boldly contrasting emerald green background color of the lace stripe probably indicates employment of one of the new synthetic dyes influencing commercial textiles in the mid-19th century. The moiré effect seen in the white stripes results from a finishing process whereby plain-woven areas are calendered (i.e. pressed with engraved roller, probably using steam or heat). This crushes some of the surface threads, which in turn reflect light differently, thus revealing a subtle shimmering pattern.
Baltimore Museum of Art by purchase, 2006; Cora Ginsburg LLC, New York, NY.
Mary Schoeser and Kathleen Dejardin, French Textiles From 1760 to the Present,Laurence King, Ltd, 1991, p127. (Cotton print with similar design)

Dorothy K. Burnham, "Warp and Weft: A Textile Terminology, " Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Ontario, 1980, "Watered," pp. 178, p. 197 "Damask".

Diderot's Encylopedie, 'Watering" Silk Cloth,

J.L. Gwynne, The Illustrated Dictionary of Lace, California: Lacis Publications, 1997, p. 74 (illustration of similar looking lace).

Manufacturer

Unknown

2000-01-01 00:00:00–2000-01-01 00:00:00

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