Unknown
Damask Panel with Stripes of Moiré and Lace Designs
1859
Physical Qualities
Silk, 23 1/4 x 47 in. (59.1 x 119.4 cm.)
Credit Line
Textile Acquisition Fund
Object Number
2006.40
Panel of light weight silk featuring 2" wide vertical stripes of white moiré (watered) pattern alternating with 3-1/2" wide damask-woven stripes in a pattern of white lace on a green ground. The moiré design is the result of a finishing process. The white areas are woven plain weave. Heavier wefts are used throughout the fabric with thinner warps, creating a ribbed effect. These were calendared with heavy engraved rollers, thus crushing the warps so that they reflect light differently, creating a pattern.
The color of the alternating deep emerald green damask stripes was most likely achieved through the use of synthetic dye. The woven lace pattern is a plausible depiction of an actual lace, possibly a Brussels Duchesse (bobbin lace with needle lace inserts) or Duchesse de Bruge with small floriated patterns, slightly heavy outlining gimp, both picoted and plain brides or bars, and étoile (star-like) filling stitches. Narrow white lines run along the sides of each green stripe, thus giving these areas more definition and importance within the design.
This panel appears to have been removed from a dress or garment. Both side edges are selvages with remnants of thread suggesting that the panel was once sewn to other panels. The top and bottom edges are cut and have old fold lines with remnants of sewing thread still present.
Baltimore Museum of Art by purchase, 2006; Cora Ginsburg LLC, New York, NY.
Rotation in the AMW1-European Decorative Arts Battye Gallery, April 6, 2009 - September, 2009.