Embroidered Pictorial Shawl (Amlikar)
1829
Physical Qualities
Wool ground, silk embroidery, 68 x 67-3/4 in. (172.8 x 172.1 cm.)
Credit Line
The Cone Collection, formed by Dr. Claribel Cone and Miss Etta Cone of Baltimore, Maryland
Object Number
1950.1986.14
Pictoral shawl embroidered in multicolored silk threads on black wool ground using chain, stem, and knotted stitches. Black center surrounded by pavillions and figures possibly depicting court scenes. Inner border of marching soliders and musicians.
Wide middle border of figures on elephants, musicians, hunting scenes, court scenes, etc. Outer border of mounted horsemen surrounded by narrow ornamental bands.
Scenes depicted may be based on the poetical romances of Indo-Persian literature, such as Khamsa ("Five Poems") of Nizami and the 'Iyar-i-danish ("Criterion of Knowledge") of Abu'l Fazl. See Irwin, pl. 27 which relates closely to this shawl
Embroidered borders appear to have been seamed on one side but not on other side. Small gold edge (possibly woven selvage) on 2 opposite sides.
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UPDATE [Museum]..Objects SET ObjectName = N'Embroidered Shawl (Amlikar) with Figures and Scenes', Description = N'A square shawl with black wool ground almost completely obscurred with embroidered designs worked in multicolored silk threads using primarily chain stitch,stem stitch, and knotted stitches throughout. The small cross-shaped unornamented black center is bordered with eight pavillions flanked by figures and a center field of figural compositions and courtly scenes. This area is surrounded by a narrow border of marching soliders and musicians. Beyond this is a wide second border of figures on elephants, musicians, hunting scenes, and court scenes contained within an a series of elaborate arches. A narrow outer border flanked on top and bottom with thin ornamental bands, depicts a continuous row of horsemen.
The embroidered borders appear to have been seamed on one side but not on other side. A small gold edge (possibly a woven selvage) is found on two opposite sides.
Scenes depicted may be based on the poetical romances of Indo-Persian literature, such as Khamsa ("Five Poems") of Nizami and the ''Iyar-i-danish ("Criterion of Knowledge") of Abu''l Fazl. See Irwin, pl. 27 which relates closely to this shaw', Notes = N'Probably purchased in Paris ca. 1927 by Claribel Cone. She referred to a "Personnage Shawl" which may have beent his example.
Source:
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The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 1950; Etta Cone.
The Baltimore Museum of Art, 02/23/1957
A. Jones, The Baltimore Museum of Art, Baltimore, "Textiles from the Cone Collection,"
September 2nd - November 23rd, 1986, no catalog.
A. Jones, The Baltimore Museum of Art, Baltimore, "Textiles from the Cone Collection,"
September 2nd - November 23rd, 1986, no catalog.
Brenda Richardson, Dr. Claribel and Miss Etta, Baltimore, The Baltimore Museum of Art, 1986, ill. p. 11. (Inaccurately identified as Delhi shawl of cotton).