Japanese Woman’s Undergarment (han-juban)
2009
Scroll
Japanese Woman’s Undergarment (han-juban)
2009
Physical Qualities
Cotton, silk or polyester, 25 1/8 × 53 in. (63.8 × 134.6 cm.)
Credit Line
Gift of Charles W. Newhall III, Baltimore
Object Number
2014.81.1a
Western Woman’s Short Sleeve Black Kimono
2010
Japan, Tokyo
Silk, dye, pigment, metal foil, metal-leafed paper strips wrapped
around silk or cotton thread core, silk embroidery thread, silk
lining
The enduring appeal of Heian motifs is evident on this
kimono, which was commissioned for an American
woman within this decade. Suspended curtains of the
type used for dance performances during the Heian
Era (794–1185) decorate the garment. Within the Heian
court, dancing ability was so admired that a nobleman
who delivered a splendid performance could rise in
rank, as did Prince Genji in The Tale of Genji.
Although the extensive decoration on this short sleeve
black kimono and the absence of family crests signal
that it was made for a foreigner, the beauty of the
elaborate yuzen dyeing, applied gold leaf (surihaku),
and the presence of the Heian dance curtain, testify
to the continuity of skill and subject matter in current
Japanese kimono production.
The long stitches (basting) around the lower skirt
of the kimono (used to keep the lining flat until
wearing) create a pine needle motif on each corner.
Pine needles resemble the Japanese character for
“human” and a pair represents a happy couple.
Gift of Charles W. Newhall III, Baltimore, BMA 2014.81.1a
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 2014; Charles Newhall, Baltimore by purchase, Tokyo, Japan
Annie Van Assche (ed.), "Fashioning Kimono: Dress and Modernity in Early Twentieth-Century Japan," The Montgomery Collection, published in conjuntion with the exhibition held at the Victoria and Albert Museum, 13 October 2005-1 May 2006, Milan, Italy: 5 Continents, 2005.
Jill Liddell, "The Story of the Kimono." New York: E.P. Dutton, 1989.
Seiroku Noma, "Japanese Costume and Textile Arts." New York: Weatherhill/Heibonsha, 1983.
Norio Yomanaka, "The Book of Kimono." Tokyo: Kodansha International, 1986.
Ken-Ichi Kawakatsu, "Kimono." Tokyo: Japan Travel Bureau, 1954.
Ishimura Hayao and Muriyama Nobuhiko, "Robes of Elegance, Japanese Kimonos of the 16th-20th Centuries." Raleigh, N.C.: North Carolina Museum of Art, 1988.
Merrily A. Peebles, "Dressed in Splendor: Japanese Costume 1700-1926." Santa Barbara, CA: Santa Barbara Museum of Art, 1987.
"The New Encyclopaedia Britannica in 30 Volumes," 15th ed., s.v. "Japan, History of." Chicago: Helen Hemingway Benton, 1974.
"The New Encyclopaedia Britannica in 30 Volumes," 15th ed., s.v. "Ashikaga Takauji." Chicago: Helen Hemingway Benton, 1974.
Gunter, Susan. "Japanese Design Motifs and Their Symbolism as used on Itajime-dyed Juban." master\., University of Georgia, 2003.
https://www.fcs.uga.edu/ss/docs/gunter_susan_e_200305_ms.pdf.
Jill Liddell, "The Story of the Kimono." New York: E.P. Dutton, 1989.
Seiroku Noma, "Japanese Costume and Textile Arts." New York: Weatherhill/Heibonsha, 1983.
Norio Yomanaka, "The Book of Kimono." Tokyo: Kodansha International, 1986.
Ken-Ichi Kawakatsu, "Kimono." Tokyo: Japan Travel Bureau, 1954.
Ishimura Hayao and Muriyama Nobuhiko, "Robes of Elegance, Japanese Kimonos of the 16th-20th Centuries." Raleigh, N.C.: North Carolina Museum of Art, 1988.
Merrily A. Peebles, "Dressed in Splendor: Japanese Costume 1700-1926." Santa Barbara, CA: Santa Barbara Museum of Art, 1987.
"The New Encyclopaedia Britannica in 30 Volumes," 15th ed., s.v. "Japan, History of." Chicago: Helen Hemingway Benton, 1974.
"The New Encyclopaedia Britannica in 30 Volumes," 15th ed., s.v. "Ashikaga Takauji." Chicago: Helen Hemingway Benton, 1974.
Gunter, Susan. "Japanese Design Motifs and Their Symbolism as used on Itajime-dyed Juban." master\., University of Georgia, 2003.
https://www.fcs.uga.edu/ss/docs/gunter_susan_e_200305_ms.pdf.
