Label text for, "Kimono and Obi: Romantic Echoes from Japan's Golden Age," July 10, 2016 - January 15, 2017. Maru Obi with Overlapping Mirrors 1912–1989, Taisho/Showa Eras Japan Silk with brocading patterning wefts of silk and silver-leafed paper strips wrapped around a cotton thread core The circular lobed designs woven into this obi are stylized representations of the backs of ancient metal mirrors. Each has a central boss through which a cord or ribbon is tied for easier handling. During the Heian Era (794–1185), similar metal mirrors became prized possessions in courtier palaces. Mirrors have been associated with women’s beauty ever since; therefore, if this obi were worn at a wedding, the mirrors would reflect symbolically upon the beauty of the bride and her status as “Princess for a Day.” The sprig of greenery depicted on this obi comes from the evergreen bush nandina (nanten). An auspicious plant, it is associated with longevity and the New Year, and is often depicted on mirrors. Nanten is a Japanese homophone (similar sounding word) for “difficulties” and “changing,” and therefore symbolizes good fortune ahead. Bequest of Sylvia G. Straton, Rhinebeck, New York BMA 2002.688 Label text for: "Curator's Choice: Recent Additions to the Textiles Collection, " April 27 - November 27, 2011. The obi (sash) is an important part of traditional Japanese female dress, in some cases becoming even more important and elaborate than the kimono. This example is a Maru obi --made of nishiki, an intricate hand-woven silk brocaded with multiple colored silk and metallic wefts that create the motifs. The fabric was woven so that the pattern repeats across the width and along the entire length. When folded in half lengthwise, it formed a long, stiff, double sided obi of the most formal and expensive kind. Although popular during the Meiji and Taisho eras, such obi are rarely worn today except on the most formal of occasions. Bequest of Sylvia G. Straton, Rhinebeck, New York BMA 2002.688