Milanese Bobbin Lace Flounce for an Alb
Late 17th-early 18th century
Physical Qualities
Linen
, Overall: 144 × 16 1/4 in. (365.8 × 41.3 cm.)
Credit Line
The Cone Collection, formed by Dr. Claribel Cone and Miss Etta Cone of Baltimore, Maryland
Object Number
1950.2022.269
Claribel Cone's Diary/Account Book of November 9, 1926 records her purchase of two Milanese priest's robes at "Marion's" in Paris. While returning to America aboard the S.S. Rotterdam later that year, she lists these as being among the, "White lace over 100 yrs old" from her collection. One of these laces may well have been this remarkable piece-not a priest's robe, but the flounce for a priest's alb, originally a very plain linen vestment worn as a sign of purity.
This flounce exemplifies the crucial role the church played as a major patron of lace making largely responsible for the rapid expansion of the industry. On one side of the 144-inch continuous band of Milanese bobbin lace is depicted the Vision of St. Paul. On the other is an ecclesiastical coat of arms. The identity of the owner remains a mystery. The Cones believed the arms to be those of a Cardinal. By the rules of ecclesiastical heraldry (or "schedule of insignia"), the number of tassels on the hat indicates a cleric of a lower rank, such as a priest or bishop; however, these conventions were not yet codified by the late 17th century when this lace was probably made. Coats of arms or family badges are not infrequent in Milanese and other Italian laces.
According to a 1937 manuscript on lace written by Etta Cone, the heirs of a deceased cardinal often sold his laces. This may account for the appearance of these rare pieces in the Parisian antique shop where she made her purchase.
The Baltimore Museum of Art by bequest, 1949; Etta Cone, Baltimore, MD by bequest, 1929; Claribel Cone, Baltimore, MD by purchase, likely by 1926; possibly Marion's, Paris, France, by 1926
Anita Jones, BMA, "A Legacy of Lace: Selections from The Cone Collection," Mar. 23-Sept. 18, 2005.
