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Jan Anthonie Karstan

Needlepoint Chatelaine Purse

1899-1924

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Jan Anthonie Karstan

Needlepoint Chatelaine Purse

1899-1924

Physical Qualities Cotton or linen net ground, silk embroidery threads, silk lining and trim, silver purse frame, 10 1/4 x 9 1/4 in. (26 x 23.5 cm.)
Credit Line Gift of Jane Daniels, Baltimore
Object Number 2014.78
Silk pettipoint purse with stylized representation of a bird - possibly a golden pheasant on a flowering branch within a quatrefoil cartouche with irregular scalloped edges. Multicolored partial floral decorations surround this central design and a small amount of very dark brown or black ground is seen around the edges. The bag has a dark brown/black stitched gusset between two matching needlepoint faces. The needlework is composed of numerous colors of multistranded silk threads, including red, dark pink, gold, lt. brown, medium taupe brown, cream, olive green, dark green, yellow, lt. blue, dark blue, gray, lt. blue green, dark blue green, etc. It is worked in approximately 24 stitches per inch warp and weft (i.e. 576 stitches per square inch) using only tent stitches (worked back and forth in horizontal rows al la "Continental" stitch) with the exception of a very few double tent stitches that cross two warps found in the orange and green flower to the lower right. The bag is attached with stitches of thick brown thread to a silver frame and clasp with repousse designs of flower baskets, hot air balloons, peacocks or pheasants, and scrolls. The reverse of the silver frame is marked in two places with a maker's mark and an engraved mark that looks similar to a royal chiper, and engraved with the letters "J J" [ or T.T. or I. I.] and the date "1776" (see inscriptions). The lining is brown silk with trim of small red and green silk rosettes around the rim and over a second metal rim that separates two inside compartments. A ring attached to the clasp indicates that this was probably a chatelaine purse designed to be suspended from an ornamental clip on the wearer's belt.
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 2014; Jane Daniels, Baltimore, by inheritance; Josephine Poe January Daniels (mother-in-law)
Roseann Ettinger, Handbags, PA.: Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 1998, p. 14, pp.44-47. Vanda Foster, Bags and Purses, The Costume Accessories Series, ed. Dr. Aileen Ribeiro, N.Y.: Drama Book Publishers, 1982, p.73.

http://www.vintagetextile.com/new_page P 208 htm, 1920's Vintage Clothing #1442 Needle point bag at Vintage Textile. Value set at $495, 7/19/2005.

Evelyn Hertig, More Beautiful Purses, Carmel California: Gallery Graphics Press, 1990.

Silver Forum at 925-1000/ Silver Marks Forum; response by oel: ref. Jan Schipper Zilverstudie and Karel A. Citroen, Dutch Goldsmiths and Silversmiths Marks and Names prior to 1812; and Elias Voet, Jr and Voet, Sr, Merken van Friese goud-en-silvermeden.

Karel Citroen, Dutch Goldsmiths' and Silversmiths' Marks and Names Prior to 1812: A Descriptive and Critical Repertory. Leiden: PrimaveraPers, 1993, p. 125, description only (no illustration) "cherries (three) branch/ Leeuwarden 1766-1787/ Jan A. Karsten".

Inscribed: Engraved on reverse of silver frame in pinpoint script: "JJ " or "TT" or "I I" / 1776" Silvermark: [three cherries on a branch] Also bears marks including a design with a divided crown (with an orb and cross), a scrolled design of what may be the initials "R" and "L" or "R" "I" "L" similar to a royal cypher, but as yet unidentified.

Maker

Jan Anthonie Karstan

1765–1786

Dutch, active 1766-1787
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