Partial Chasuble with Orphrey worked in Opus Anglicanum
1367-1432
Physical Qualities
Silk velvet, linen lining, orphrey embroidered in silk and metallic-wrapped threads on a linen ground, trim of silk and metallic-wrapped threads, 50 1/2 x 24 1/2 in. (128.3 x 62.2 cm.)
Credit Line
Decorative Arts Fund
Object Number
1957.34
By the thirteenth century, the continuous need for richly embroidered clerical vestments supported an important and lucrative industry. The orphrey, or ornamental band, applied to this partial chasuble (a liturgical vestment worn by the priest officiating at the Eucharist) is an example of opus anglicanum (English work), a form of embroidery that flourished in England in the mid-thirteenth century and continued on into the fourteenth century. This highly accomplished needlework, usually created by professional masters in London workshops, was held in high esteem throughout Europe.
The six figures portrayed on the orphrey represent Christian saints. The last figure at the hem of the garment has been truncated as have several others, and a seventh figural scene has been split and used to ornament the neckline of the chasuble, thus indicating that this orphrey was not original to the chasuble back, but was cut down to fit an existing vestment whose original ornament was removed.
Characteristic of opus anglicanum, this embroidery is worked on a heavy linen ground using silk and metallic-wrapped threads. Details are executed in fine split stitches, which are worked in a circular manner on the faces of the figures in order to give the illusion of dimension. The backgrounds are covered in metallic threads attached to the surface by underside couching, i.e. stitches that secure loops of the metallic and silk embroidery threads that have been pulled through to the reverse side of the ground fabric. This technique results in a greater flexibility of design, less stiffness in the final article, and greater ability to withstand wear, since the threads holding the design were not subject to abrasion.
By the end of the fourteenth century or early fifteenth century, when this orphrey was probably made, opus anglicanum was in decline, largely succumbing to the decimation caused by the Black Death and the lack of resources resulting from domestic unrest in England and the constant conflict in Europe attending the Hundred Years War.
The Baltimore Museum of Art by purchase, 1957; Adolph Loewi, Los Angeles
Sona Johnston, "A Grand Legacy: Five Centuries of European Art," Reinstallation of the Jacobs Wing, The Baltimore Museum of Art, opened January 12, 2003. This piece on exhibition until approximately July 31, 2003.
Rotation into the Jacobs Wing as continuation of "A Grand Legacy," March 1, 2004-October 5, 2004.
Rotation into the Jacobs Wing as continuation of "A Grand Legacy, "September 27, 2006- January 23, 2007.
Rotation into the Jacobs Wing as continuation of "A Grand Legacy." February 2009-
Rotation into the Jacobs Wing as continuation of "A Grand Legacy," March 1, 2004-October 5, 2004.
Rotation into the Jacobs Wing as continuation of "A Grand Legacy, "September 27, 2006- January 23, 2007.
Rotation into the Jacobs Wing as continuation of "A Grand Legacy." February 2009-
Baltimore Museum of Art, "The Baltimore Museum of Art: Celebrating a Museum". Baltimore: The Baltimore Museum of Art, 2014.
Andre, Linda, and Jessica Skwire Routhier, eds. The Baltimore Museum of Art: Celebrating A Museum. Baltimore, Maryland: Baltimore Museum of Art, 2014. pg.32-33
Inscribed: There are 4 labels on the reverse of the chasuble (reverse of viewer's upper left): fabric sewn label: "No 74" handwritten in black ink; fabric sewn label: Stamp (circular, only partly registered) in black ink, and "7676" handwritten over stamp in black ink (this label has a small lead weight sewn onto it from the dealer -Loewi); fabric ironed-on label: "11027 L 9/nel" typewritten; fabric ironed-on label: "111027/nel/AW" also typewritten. The latter two labels were removed during conservation and placed in small plastic bag in object file.