Western-Style Woman’s Coat of Bagh Phulkari Embroidery
1909-1929
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Western-Style Woman’s Coat of Bagh Phulkari Embroidery
1909-1929
Physical Qualities
Cotton ground, silk embroidery threads, 45 x 59 in. (114.3 x 149.9 cm.)
Credit Line
Gift of Susan Mordecai Myrick, Washington, D.C.
Object Number
2009.89
Tailored short coat of Western style composed of Indian Phulkari embroidery (a type of embroidery specific to a region in North-west India (the Punjab). The coat is designed in a simple, straight style with long set in sleeves and a wide stand-up collar that continues around the neck into a long free hanging scarf. A single large button on the wearer's left provides closure using a single loop composed of twisted threads on the left. The entire outer surface of the coat is composed of a red cotton ground with an all over pattern of geometric designs worked in silk threads of various colors, including primarily several shades of orange, as well as some green, and white. The hem, collar/scarf, and sleeves are bordered with stylized heart shapes worked primarily in white. The fabric may have been commissioned or designed for the purpose of constructing the garment or may have been cut from a woman's head cover known as a "bagh." This type of work (bagh) is generally referred to as a form of phulkari embroidery. The coat is lined with a white silk. No designer label or marking appears. Numerous areas show hand sewing; however, it is not possible to determine if the entire coat is made solely by hand.
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 2009; Susan Myrick, Washington, D.C; collection of donor's aunt by purchase. Donor's aunt: Louise Dixon Mordecai (b. 1/19/1880 in Central Valley, CA; d. 2/25/1980 in CA). Ms. Mordecai puchased the evening coat during a tour of the eastern Mediterranean in the 1920s.
Inscribed: None
