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Woman’s Yelek or Jelek with Metallic Embroidery and Trim

Woman’s Yelek or Jelek with Metallic Embroidery and Trim

Ottoman, 1867-1932

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Woman’s Yelek or Jelek with Metallic Embroidery and Trim

Ottoman, 1867-1932

Physical Qualities Wool, metallic-wrapped embroidery threads, metallic trim, silk couching threads, silk lining, buttons with metallic-wrapped threads and beads, 13 x 16 1/2 in. (33 x 41.9 cm.)
Credit Line Gift of Martha Custis Peter, Baltimore, MD.
Object Number 2008.35
The yelek or jelek is a vest worn by both men and women as part of traditional costumes in Turkey, Albania, Yugoslavia, and parts of Bulgaria. The heavy metallic embroidery used on these vests and their presence throughout much of the Balkans reveals the influence of Turkish textile art remaining from centuries of domination by the Ottoman Empire. The metallic-wrapped threads that form the designs are too thick to be drawn through the ground fabric. Therefore, they are couched, that is, laid on the surface of the vest and sewn down with small stitches of silk thread. The meticulous designs on this vest are indicative of a very skilled embroiderer. Many small, non-functional "buttons" covered in metallic-wrapped threads and finished with small glass beads provide additional ornament.
Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 2008; Martha Custis Peter, Baltimore, MD.
Curator's Choice Rotation

New Arrivals: Gifts of Art for a New Century
Cavallo, Adolph. A Festival of Fibers: Masterworks of Textile Art in the Collection of the Honolulu Academy of Arts, 1977.

Kahlenberg, Mary Hunt. Asian Costumes and Textiles: from the Bosphorus to Fujiyama. Skira, 2001.

Davis, Louise. "Some Balkan Embroidery." Embroidery, vol. 30, no. 4, Winter 1979.

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