Buddhist Priest’s Robe (Kesa) with Narcissus Design
1749
Physical Qualities
Silk, gold-leafed mulberry paper strips, 46 × 81 in. (116.8 × 205.7 cm.)
Mount (with plexi cover): 50 3/4 × 86 × 2 3/8 in. (128.9 × 218.4 × 6 cm.)
Credit Line
Gift of Elizabeth F. Cheney, Oak Park, Illinois
Object Number
1980.195
A seven-column kesa constructed of karaori (Japanese for 'Chinese weave'), which features long floating supplemental wefts of colored silk (in this case, untwisted silk floss wefts of navy blue, lt. blue, pink, white, dk. green, yellow-green, gold, and dark orange) forming floating patterns reminiscent of embroidery. These wefts form motifs of small six-petaled flowers (narcissus) amidst long grasses. Flat metallic-leafed paper strips produce golden, overlapping snowflake medallions (yukiwa) appearing almost as wave patterns.Tie dyed (kasuri) warps create a stepped or block pattern of alternating blue and orange (dangawari) in approximately twelve inch increments.
The kesa is constructed with a wide border 5-1/2"-6" wide and mitred at the corners. Within the field, the fabric is cut and sewn into 7 wide columns (the largest in the center measuring 9-1/4") separated by
3-1/2" wide vertical strips.
The kesa has four patches (6-1/4" x 5-1/2") sewn into the inside corners of the border that represent the Four Heavenly Kings or guardians of the four cardinal points of the Buddhist universe. These and two larger patches (8-1/4" x 7-1/4") situated at the top and sides of the center column, which represent the Bodhisattva, are of cream white silk with gold leafed mulberry paper wefts creating patterns of paulownia plants and kara kusa (scrolling vine with leaves, technically translated as "Chinese grass"). This fabric is an example of "kinran". The kesa is hand sewn with small even stitches spaced very accurately, approximately 3/8" apart. The kesa is lined in purple silk (created by interwoven red-pink warps and blue wefts rather than dye). This lining and the ties attached to the reverse may be replacements.
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 1980; Elizabeth F. Cheney, Oak Park, Illinois, by purchase; Marshall Field & Company, Chicago
Anita Jones and Frances Klapthor, Baltimore Museum of Art, "Robes of Deliverance: Ritual Garments of the Buddhist Priests of Japan," September 1, 1999-February 27, 2000
Frances Klapthor, "The Way of Nature: Art from Japan, China, and Korea," Baltimore Museum of Art, September 21, 2025-March 1, 2026
Frances Klapthor, "The Way of Nature: Art from Japan, China, and Korea," Baltimore Museum of Art, September 21, 2025-March 1, 2026
BMA Today, August/September 1999, ill. p. 9.