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Whitework Coat Embroidered with Chinese Figures

1894-1904

Scroll

Whitework Coat Embroidered with Chinese Figures

1894-1904

Physical Qualities Silk embroidery threads on silk ground, silk lining, cotton shoulder pads, 41 1/4 x 51 in. (104.8 x 129.5 cm.)
Credit Line Gift of Merry Gladding Highby, Baltimore
Object Number 2010.23
A western-style woman's knee-length coat with straight, inset sleeves sleeves, small turn collar, and pointed lapels. The coat is composed of a plain-woven, cream or ivory silk, embroidered throughout with Chinese figures and landscapes worked primarily in plied cream silk threads, with white silk floss used for the faces, hands, and feet, and black silk threads used to outline the faces, indicate features and hair, and red silk threads to indicate mouths. The two front panels are worked in mirror image embroidery, beginning with a scene in which a man and woman sit at a booth-the man inside, the female outside, (possibly a letter writer). Below is a man with a yoke at his feet holding 2 baskets - one of peaches(?) and another of flowers. A woman stands to the side holding a bundle (perhaps a musician’s instrument beneath a wrapping or bolts of cloth. In the next level, a man is shown leading a horse. A series of buildings, including a pagoda, possible temples, gates, and landscapes are shown below where a woman stands by the end of a bridge. In the background there are pairs of birds and a rooster and hen, and butterflies. Peonies, maple, pine, and prunus trees are scattered throughout. On the reverse, the embroidery crosses the entire back without repeating in one long pictorial "narrative." At top is a landscape with temples, etc. A man walks by with a fish on the end of his pole and a fish basket attached. A woman stands at the left. The center back features a man being driven in a rickshaw before a great gate. Below is a garden scene featuring a man with a hoe(?) and a woman looking over an animal eating or drinking. Another man stands in a garden below with a fan. Embroidery is worked primarily in satin stitch with some stem stitch. No other stitches are noted. The coat closes with two machine-sewn loops inset into the lining at the center front and two buttons (each approximately 3/4" wide) covered with plain-sewn cream silk. The buttons are sewn on crudely. The coat is fully lined in cream silk satin and has cotton shoulder pads. All construction is by machine. All embroidery is by hand(?).
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 2010; Merry Gladding Highby, Baltimore
Augusta Auctions, Embroidered Export Coat, China, 1920-40
http:/www.augusta-auction.com/componen/auctions/?view=lot&id=12578&auction_file_... 3/25/2013. This coat white with multicolored bird and floral embroidery --more common design.

Inscribed: None

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