Helen Burton and Camel's Bell Shop
Embroidered Jacket with Phoenix
1919-1929
Scroll
Physical Qualities
Unidentified ground; cotton or silk embroidery threads, gold-metallic wrapped embroidery threads, 34 × 44 in. (86.4 × 111.8 cm.)
Credit Line
Gift of Michael and Anis Merson, Baltimore
Object Number
2017.428
A hybrid Western/Eastern jacket with center front opening, mandarin collar, and long, set in, slightly flared sleeves. The jacket is covered in couched gold metallic–wrapped threads. A large-scale phoenix worked in multi-colored embroidery threads covers the front, back and outer sleeves of the jacket. The phoenix is depicted in dark blue, teal blue, turquoise-green, purple, rose, pink, orange, white, and black threads (plied cotton and/or silk) on the dark golden ground formed of the couched metallic threads. It stands on a rock formation or mountain surrounded below by wave motifs outlined in dark blue threads with wave crests in teal and rose. A vine with leaves with floral motif (possibly a lotus) grows out of the waves. The coat’s hem, sleeve opening, and side seams are outlined in a dark blue key fret motif. A second outline within the fret design is formed of Chinese fungus shapes worked in rose. The coat is closed with two rose-jade sphere-shaped fasteners joined by a dark blue silk cord, each of which fits through an opening in the seam between collar and neckline.
The coat is lined in dark blue silk, which may be a replacement. The original retailer's woven tag was included with the coat when donated.
The Baltimore Museum of Art by gift, 2017; Michael and Anis Merson by purchase; unnamed Baltimore collector, possibly "Deco Dave," via e-bay; originally sold via Camel’s Bell Shop, Peking, China
Advertised on e-Bay,
Inscribed: Woven into tag sewn inside of jacket: “FROM/THE CAMEL’S BELL GIFT SHOP/PEKING CHINA/ Made in China”
